That led sequence is unknown to me. Normal operation is a dull green or red glow. Exceptions are a led sequence with blinking for1/2 second at one second intervals with 2 seconds between repetition.
It’s possible your unit is caught unable to download the new release because of poor WiFi or slow internet.
I’d recommend turning everything off - the router, the IoTaWatt (both), your tablet and your wife’s laptop. Then start the router and wait a minute or so. Then the computer and tablet and insure they get connected and can access the internet. Then the IoTaWatt and observe the LEDs.
Once everything is back on. Try accessing #1 vio .local using both devices and note results. Then #2 and note results and LED.
I tried what you said. Powered everything off. Then powered up the router. Then powered up the laptop and iPad. Verified internet connection. Then powered up the #1 iotawatt. LED came on dull green and stayed that way. On laptop, I was able to access .local and IP address on chrome. On iPad, no luck accessing .local on safari or chrome but was able to connect using IP address on safari and chrome. Powered up #2 iotawatt. Started out dull green for maybe 5 seconds, then went to dull red for five seconds or so, then back to dull green followed by a bright green flash and back to red. But it looks more like a flicker when it’s red and green. Not really a stable light. Not able to connect to iota2.local at all on either device. #2 does sit some distance from the router and the kids complained about the wifi speed yesterday. After powering up the router today, I stood next to #2 and connected to the wifi with my phone. I was able to watch videos on YouTube without any trouble or slowness. I did this to verify strong wifi before powering up #2.
Interesting development… #2 has been plugged in since our last communication. I checked it this morning and the led was steady red. So it’s having trouble connecting. So I checked the laptop. Wifi working normally. #1 running fine. So I power cycled 2 and it came back red, green green. Did this for quite a while then went back to steady red. I tried to connect my phone and it wouldn’t connect. It kept saying obtaining IP address. The laptop and iPad are both connected. I got the IP address from the #1 and tried manually inputting it in the iPad and it wouldn’t connect. Currently, the laptop is the only thing that will connect to #1 and it will find .local and the IP address. I’ve also noticed the IP address on number one sometimes ends in a two digit number. When it’s a two digit number, my phone (android) and the iPad can find #1 using the IP address. When it ends in a single digit, my phone cannot connect to the wifi and the iPad cannot find #1. Work is getting insane so I don’t have much time to dedicate to this. Not that I know much about what I’m doing!
The unit is not configured for WiFi or is not seeing the SSID that it is configured to, so it is in AP mode the first three minutes after a power cycle to allow you to connect to it and [re]configure WiFi. At a minimum, if you think it is configured, you can see if the SSID you are using appears in the list of scanned SSIDs. Note: the password for connecting will be the iotawatt device name - case sensitive.
Steady red indicates it is logging data but not connected to WiFi. When this is resolved, that data will be available for local view and upload.
Changing the IP address can really mess up the mDNS addressing. You would be well advised to setup your router to assign static IP addresses to these devices.
Update: A while back in this thread I posted that my iotawatt wasn’t matching up to what the meter was showing for total usage. In the process of moving CT’s around trying to improve things, both of the 200 amp CT’s on the feeds to my 100 amp panel still had the shipping paper stuck inside. I missed it when I checked. I still moved the CT’s around but in the 9 days since then, the iotawatt is less than one kWh off of the meter.
Almost a year and to the day later, I’m actually getting around to installing this. (My first electrician ghosted me, and then everything went on hold for COVID).
One specific question before I commit to the install - do I actually need to have the two AC reference power bricks, one for each base unit? Remember they’re stacked on top of each other and connected to the same power souce.
I remember determining that I did not – that one would suffice (I think my plan was to calibrate the first, and then copy that calibration result into the other one). But I don’t remember how I came to this conclusion.
I’m looking forward to sharing installation photos soon!